Fantastic sleep last night. I do my typical learn how to walk, tea and Cliff bar thing. I also pay my respects at the privy which turns out to be the cleanest yet. Exton asks if he can hike with me this morning and we head out together. He’s hiking back to his car by Neel Gap and I’ve decided to take a NERO at Mountain Crossings at Neel Gap. What’s a NERO? Where a ZERO is basically a day off where you hike zero miles, a nero is one where you hike nearly zero miles. Nero. Neel Gap is 2.8 miles away which makes this a nero day. Although I feel well rested and my knee feels better than last night, there’s definitely something going on with it and I think taking most of the day off will help. Continue reading
I wake to water splashing onto the mesh and into my hammock, as another wild storm passes overhead. It’s 5am and the rain has picked up back to Monsoon again. Biblical even. This has to be the hardest rain I’ve ever camped in. I reach under the hammock to feel the my UQ. Wet and mucky, again. UGH! “Forget it, I’ll deal with it when I get up in a couple of hrs,” I think to myself as I doze back off. Lori and I once slept in our hammocks during the tail end of a hurricane and didn’t get this wet. I think it helped that we had nice thick grass under the hammocks to help absorb the rain while the hard packed dirt beneath me tonight is doing the exact opposite. It seemed like such a perfect spot last night when I was setting up.
A couple of hours later, I try unsuccessfully, to tune out the voices I hear just outside my floating palace of one. Ok so setting up the hammock directly in front of the shelter where everyone congregates, may not have been the most perfect spot. It’s daylight and still raining. Might as well get up and assess the sitch. The piece of Tyvek I use as a ground sheet under the hammock, and my hiking shoes sitting on top, are completely caked with muck. The UQ is still damp and also covered with muck. As an added bonus, I find my hiking shorts have fallen off the top of the hammock and are laying in the mud completely covered, nice. Continue reading
Usually it takes me a day or two to get comfortable sleeping in the woods but I have to say I slept fantastic last night. Had to force myself to get up and leave my little floating cocoon. My calves screamed at me the second my feet hit the ground. The ladies said they slept pretty well, and didn’t fall out of their hammocks – woohoo! I made a tea and slowly packed up camp, calves feeling better with every step. I don’t typically eat breakfast first thing in the morning so I forced a Cliff bar down before heading out.
Pretty quiet hiking most of the day, almost tranquil. The forest tends to insulate the sound pretty well, and there’s definitely a lot of forest here. I pulled into Hawk Mountain shelter at mile marker 8.1 and found a couple of guys packing up their gear. I was hoping to use the privy and to re-fill on water at the water source my map book indicated was .1 mile behind the shelter. Continue reading
Strange but I was actually feeling nervous, you know, like before an interview butterflies-in-the-tummy-nervous. So I’m not sure if it was the nerves or the food at the lodge or what, but man was I happy to have a full bathroom for some quality one on one porcelain time this morning. First thing after getting up – hit the bathroom, unpacked my new gear – bathroom, text Lori – bathroom, went for breakfast – bathroom. It was a nicely tiled bathroom, something you’d find in a more upscale hotel. Talked to Lori on the phone for a bit. Apparently she didn’t get home till after midnight, yuck. I re-packed my backpack with the few extra goodies I had shipped to the hostel the previous day, and went in for one final round in that super snazzy bathroom before hitting the trail at the crack of 11.
Lori text me: “just remember Andrew Skurka’s words. Hiking is a tortoise’s game, not a hare’s.”
We’ve talked about doing this hike for a long time. Initially we considered doing it together but after a short test hike a couple of years ago, Lori decided that she didn’t love it as much as me. Something about not enjoying climbing mountains all day long, non-stop sweating and the constant bugs. With that in mind she gave me the green light to go hike.
It took Lori & I a couple of days to drive down to Georgia, about 1300km’s (800 miles), where the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is. We left pretty late the first day and then got delayed at the border. “So how long you gonna be in the states?” I was asked. “Oh about 3 months,” I replied. Seemed to be the wrong answer as it prompted even more questions followed by: “well that’s a long time so you’re gonna have to go see immigration and talk to them.”
Surprisingly it only took about 30 min to clear immigration. I say surprisingly because when we arrived, the room was full of people. I couldn’t help but wonder what they do with Snowbirds every year. “Yes I’ll be here for 6 months!” I think the correct answer lies somewhere between 1-2 weeks.
Lori dropped me off at the Hiker Hostel, in fact we spent a night at the Hostel shipping container cabin. Super cool set up; queen bed, tiny hotel sized fridge, sink, bathroom, a tiny counter height table. Everything you need and at $55/night, it even included breakfast the next morning.
Lori was planning on driving all the way home to Brantford, an easy 13.5 hrs ;), so she left right after brekky. I waved goodbye and watched her drive off and all of a sudden the reality of what I was doing hit me. I’m planning on hiking the Appalachian Trail (AT) for a few months hopefully getting all the way to Maine, 2189 miles north.
Now there are many ways to hike a trail like this. You can go out for a short day hike here and there. This is pretty easy to do as you don’t really need any specialized equipment. Just some good trail runners and maybe a hydration pack or day pack with some water and snacks. You leave your car in a parking lot and off you go for an hour or 3 or 6. You hike a few miles and then return back to your car. Some will hike with a buddy and will leave a second car at a location ahead somewhere allowing them to hike on rather than having to double back to the original starting point. Of course to hike all 2189 miles it would take most of a lifetime or two to get’er done.
Some people will also do what’s called a section hike. This is a little more involved and closer resembles a thru-hike as far as gear or equipment needed. A section hike can be anything from a few days to even a few weeks. Basically anything more than a day hike and less than a thru-hike would fall into this category. Because you’re going to be on the trail overnight you’re going to need a little bit more than a hydration pack. Overnighting it in the woods typically requires the Big 3: backpack, shelter and sleep system (sleeping bag and mattress pad). You’ll need to bring other items such as food, a stove or cooking kit, clothes, first aid kit, toiletries, things like that. You’re also going to need to figure out the logistics of getting to the trail and then back off the trail. But this allow you to hike a longer section of the trail, it also provides you with a different experience of the trail than just day hiking.
A thru-hike is pretty much a really long section hike. Gear wise it requires a similar set up, I would even go as far as saying one will take less gear for a thru-hike. With a section hike you might bring a few extras, perhaps you’re trying out a new piece of gear or are trying to decide between 2 pieces so you bring both to test. I think it’s a little easier to get away with bringing an extra few ounces knowing that the hike is only going to be a few days, while I think you need to have your gear set up dialled in for a thru-hike. With that said, you can always ship something home or get different gear sent out to a town close to the trail. A thru-hike requires hiking continuously for around 4-6 months depending on how fast you hike and how many days off you take. Simple math will tell you that hiking an average of 16 miles each day it would take about 4.5 months to hike all 2189 miles. That’s assuming you hike 16 miles each and every day without stopping.
Besides logistics, the biggest difference between the three I think is the commitment of time required to do each one. Some folks prefer day hikes, while others like to go out for several days and nights at a time. Some enjoy the hike itself and love to do lots of miles but don’t like to sleep in the woods, so day hiking might be a better fit for them. Some love to go at it alone, while some love the social atmosphere present at some of the shelters along the way.
Lori and I have made plans to seeing each other somewhere down the trail but with Lori starting a new job in 2 days, we’re not sure how much time off she’ll have or when. So it’s all up in the air at the moment. Being away from her is going to be the most difficult thing if I hike the entire trail. I say if, only because thru-hiking the AT has a success rate of only about 26%. That means that out of the 2000 + aspiring thru-hikers that set out to hike the entire length every year, only about 500 or so actually make it.
There are many reasons for a success rate that low, the biggest one of which is that it’s really quite difficult. You’re hiking over mountains, smaller one, big ones, and even bigger ones. But lots and lots of mountains. The elevation gain alone is the equivalent to hiking up Mount Everest 16 times and the AT has an elevation gain/loss of over 515,000 feet. The hardest sections are reported to be at the start of the trail regardless if you’re starting at the southern terminus of Springer Mountain in Georgia or the northern terminus at Mt Katahdin in Baxter State Park located in Maine. It’s a physical challenge no doubt but also a mental one too.
Although I think starting from the north and hiking south is more challenging for several reasons. For one, you face climbing and descending Mt Katahdin as your first order of business. Next as you leave Baxter state park, you are greeted by the 100 mile wilderness. As the name implies there is nothing except wilderness for 100 miles. No restaurants, no resupply store, no coffee shops, just 100 miles of you and the wilderness. Oh and just in case you’re thinking “that’s not that bad,” let’s not forget the ferocious black flies and mosquitoes that are with you very step of the way along this stretch. If you make it out alive, and that’s a big if, you are then faced with hiking over the White Mountains in NH. I’m getting tired just thinking about all that.
I’ve decided to start in south where the biggest worries I have are just the mountains and the bears. If I can take it easy over the first couple of weeks and avoid injuries, I’ll have a good shot at 2000+ miles. But to be honest I’m happy to just be out here hiking for as long as I can.
The Hiker hostel where we stayed last night provides shuttle service to the starting point of the Appalachian Trail, or to Amicalola Falls. Amicalola is actually considered the unofficial beginning to the AT.
I signed in at the visitor centre here as a thru-hiker and proceeded to climb the 650 or so stairs to get to the top of the falls. Killer by the way! But don’t worry, I only almost passed out once.
On my way up the stairs I met Jeremy who is from Maine and is planning on (thru) hiking home. Cool. We suffered up the stairs together at least. Jeremy kept on trucking to the top of Springer while I ducked into Amicalola Falls Lodge calling it a day. Gotta start off small after all, right? Amicalola Falls Lodge offers all the creature comforts, a clean bed, a restaurant and internet, and after some negotiations at the front desk I even got a discounted rate for a room.
Tomorrow, I hike the Appalachian Trail!
So I’ve been home for a couple of weeks and have to admit that I’m feeling a little deflated, bored, and maybe even a little depressed. It’s hard to come off a year of constant motion, of picking up daily and moving on to somewhere new and exciting, and just STOP. Even harder to come off the adrenalin packed month I’ve had in California; flying high in a formation clinic, driving a sling shot or munching on a Schat’s Bakery sandwich at a quiet overlook while staring out at the ever captivating Sierras. It’s kind of hard to get excited about watching traffic go by outside our window and reading the weekly Canadian Tire flyer with my morning tea. UGH! I’ve tried to get out as much as I can but even hiking on the local trails is a little anti-climactic after hiking out west.
Maybe it’s the post adventure doldrums. Maybe I’m feeling this way because everything associated with “here” has to do with our former eat/work/sleep lives. Maybe reality lies somewhere in between, I have no clue. Continue reading
Sunrise from my campsite on the lake. I’d say it’s still pretty stunning! Continue reading
With Tigger already fixed up (actually I snuck back to San Ramon over the weekend to pick up my bike from the dealership before heading back for all that fun in the sky in Fresno), I headed out on my own again for a couple of days. Mike and Kati were heading to Lake Powell the most direct route and I wanted to head over the Sierras.
Mike’s expertise of everything California became obvious to me within the first couple of hundred miles as I managed to fill up at the most expensive gas station around. Not to mention I had to pay attention to the GPS again.
Sonora Pass was closed the previous week from the winter still, so I was looking forward to taking a new pass over the mountains. It was nice to have Tigger in tip top shape again and fresh rubber on the rear. The previous tire had kept me company for 18,000km’s (11,250 miles), and still had some miles left on it. I’m really liking the Heidenau K60’s. The front has over 33,000km’s (20,625 miles) at this point and I expect it to last to 50,000km’s (or about 30,000 miles). As long as you don’t need to do a tire change on the road, these things are fantastic.
Sonora Pass did not disappoint. No vehicles to speak of and as twisty as anything I’ve ridden in California. Just a blast. Continue reading
Yup, Tim lives in a very interesting neighbourhood in Fresno. Forget that 3 car garage you’ve always wanted, these guys have hangers for garages. HANGERS! WITH PLANES IN THEM!! I didn’t even know places like this existed.
But before we go anywhere else, you need to meet Tim’s dog, Buddy – the wonder dog. Buddy has only 3 legs due to an unfortunate accident, but man is he just the happiest dog ever. Continue reading